This post is Part Two of a series of posts that summarize what is going on in our industrial food system as inspired by the movie Food, Inc.
Do you like chicken? Do you know where the chicken you eat comes from? How it is raised? What it is fed? If not, you might want to start paying more attention.
Now, this is a good looking chicken!
Similar to the beef industry, only a handful of companies control the chicken industry. Two big names may sound familiar: Tyson and Purdue. After the near death of the tobacco industry in the south, the chicken growers moved in. Farmers who previously grew tobacco started to sign contracts with mega chicken production companies thinking they would be able to make a good living, and the chicken equivalent of beef production began. These farmers are not farmers anymore, they are "growers", and no longer are they in charge of their own businesses. They sign on with the big guns and have to invest hundreds of thousands of dollars into chicken houses without any windows or light, into which they cram thousands of chickens. These chickens are fed low quality grain feed that is laced with antibiotics to "protect" them from the immenent infections they will contract in such filthy and cramped living conditions. They are raised and slaughtered in half the time (48 days) they were in the 1950's and they are twice as big. Their breasts are genetically modified to be bigger because that's what people *think* they want to eat. The chickens are so oversized and their muscle and fat mass grow so fast that their bones and internal organs cannot keep up; they fall down after trying to take a few steps, they can't breath, and many cannot fight off infection, even with the antibiotic flavoring in their food. Every day the growers have to go into the chicken houses and pick up the dead ones. The sick ones who aren't quite dead come slaughter time end up in the poultry section of your supermarket, and eventually on your dinner plate. The goal of companies like Tyson is to produce a large amount of food, on a small amount of land, for affordable prices. I suppose "affordable" depends on the context. If one can "afford" to make oneself sick by eating cheap food, then yes, it is quite affordable. One grower, Carole Morison, shared her story in Food, Inc. She was contracted under Purdue and decided that she had to speak out because what these companies are doing is not right. The companies force the growers to make expensive upgrades for which they have to take out more and more loans, putting them farther and farther into debt and keeping the growers right where the companies want them, under their thumbs. Carole had the "old-fashioned" chicken houses that had windows; her contract was terminated when she refused to convert to the dark tunnel-ventilated houses. On top of the mountain of debt she accrued, she also developed a resistance to all antibiotics from inhaling them for so many years. A typical grower is $500,000 in debt and makes only $18,000 a year. How is this a good living?
Many of these companies, including the leading pork producer with the largest slaughterhouse IN THE WORLD: Smithfield, treat their workers as badly as they do the animals. Smithfield has to recruit people from the outlying areas because they've already burned through the people who live in town. They target very low-income areas and also hire immigrant workers whom they can take advantage of. They hire people who can't afford to leave and they recruit workers from Mexico who lost their jobs and businesses because of the corn industry in the U.S. The government turned a blind eye to this practice because it was cheap labor, but suddenly with the current anti-immigrant movement, they are cracking down- but not on the companies of course- on the workers. Eduardo Pena, a Union Organizer for the Smithfield employees says, "These people have been here for ten, fifteen years processing your bacon, your holiday ham, and now they are being picked up like they're criminals- and these companies are making billions of dollars". Our food system is not about food anymore, it's about money.
Okay, so with all of this negative information about the industrial food chain, I'll end this post with a video of Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms. He embodies what REAL farming is. He raises his plants and animals with respect and integrity. His entire farm is essentially self-sustaining, nature does what it is meant to do; cows eat and fertilize the grass, chickens run around and eat the bugs and worms, pigs get to plow through the mud under the oak trees. He realizes the connection between the health of the food we eat, our own health, and the health of the world. It's about respecting the natural cycle of where your food comes from instead of controlling it. "If we put glass walls on all the mega-processing facilities, we would have a different food system in this country," he says from his open air chicken processing station in his yard. I would love to have the opportunity to check out his farm in Virginia.
If you are in Oregon, I know of one farm who learned how to farm directly from Salatin, it's called Abundant Life Farm and they are located in Peacful Valley. I'm going to look into buying from them. Search farms in your area to find a good place to get your food!